A Thrill on the Hill
Chefs infuse neighborhood café with flavor and flair

Erin Tilley
Richmond Magazine
Tuesday January 1, 2002

The Hill Cafe co-owners Michelle Williams, Ted Wallof and Jarod Golden have succeeded where many others have failed. The Hard Shell/Europa trio took over a neighborhood favorite and infused new energy, all the while leaving the soul of the place intact. Key elements like the classic bar and homestyle menu options are the same as ever, but the updated decor and menu have rejuvenated the restaurant. The long-lived, cozy Church Hill joint now has comfort food with a flair, a fresh coat of brick-red paint, pretty posy-filled carafes near the booths and eclectic tunes on the sound system.

The most remarkable thing about the transformation is how the new owners have maintained the welcoming, casual atmosphere that has been at the heart of the café’s longevity.

Just like the neighborhood in which it’s set, The Hill Cafe represents a nifty combination of historic charm and quirky panache. Select a table at the window and look out onto a block of turn-of-the-century row houses or saddle up to one of the black booths with seats that appear to be salvaged church pews.

The sole black mark during two visits: a heavy veil of smoke hung over the small bar and restaurant. The dining experience otherwise was extremely pleasant. Warm treatment by friendly hostesses and attentive servers combined with attractive and delectable dishes of food mean I’ll be back with friends in tow.

The entrees my friends and I sampled were all scrumptious. The crab pasta ($17.95) was a heaping dish of penne combined with fresh melted mozzarella, basil, pungent and coarsely chopped bits of garlic and plenty of lump crab meat. The filet mignon ($19.95) with its rich mushroom-rosemary sauce and side of chunky, mashed red-skinned potatoes was prepared to perfection.

My mahi special ($18.95) had a seared, crispy exterior and a butter-soft interior. The mango-cilantro coulis atop the fish added a tangy tropical touch to the dish. This special was served with rice pilaf and a sauté of zucchini, squash and carrots. We also sampled the crab cakes, market priced at $20.95—not too outrageous. Served over rice pilaf and topped with a lemon remoulade, the cakes had a pure crab flavor.

Starters were as enjoyable as our entrees. The house salad with vinaigrette ($3.95), black bean and mushroom quesadillas ($5.95) and coconut shrimp ($7.95) were all delicious. The shrimp were rolled in flaky, grated coconut and lightly fried. They were tasty on their own, but the zippy key lime and jalapeño dipping sauce was good, too. For dessert, the crème brûlée ($4.95) was standard and the coconut custard pie ($4.95) topped with toasted coconut was unbelievable—the stuff grandmothers make.

For brunch, I tried the chipped beef and gravy ($5.95) with a side of bacon ($2). The open-faced biscuit doused with the creamy, salty gravy was a satisfying start to the day. My omelet ($5.95) was made with spinach and roasted red peppers. The dish usually comes with crab ($8.95), but I opted out. Mistakenly, the kitchen left off the goat cheese that would have made a good brunch even better.

Big glasses of orange juice and steaming cups of coffee rounded off the meal. Those not interested in breakfast food for brunch can order lunch items, which fall under the “not actually breakfast” category on the menu.

The restaurant’s varied wine list includes seven offerings by the glass ($4.50-$6), including a nice pinot grigio ($5). Several beers on tap and a long list of bottled brews are also available.

A broad price range for food and spirits allows guests to dine on a budget or go all-out.

Hours: Open daily until 2 a.m. Lunch served Monday through Friday at 11:30 a.m. Saturday and Sunday brunch from 10:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.