| The Hill Cafe reaches
the pinnacle of fine neighborhood dining.
The Restaurant Next Door
Carter Braxton
Style Weekly
Saturday January 1, 2000
When I lived in the Fan, one of the things I loved
most was my proximity to good food. From my apartment
on Lombardy, I could walk to Texas-Wisconsin, Bogart’s,
Cafe di Pagliacci and what was then called The Stonewall
Cafe. Then I moved to Church Hill. This was pre-Shockoe
Bottom renaissance, and the pickins were slim. Fortunately,
for residents of the Hill, choices have improved,
and one is even within walking distance: The Hill
Cafe.
I’ve been to The Hill Cafe for lunch and dinner
over the years since I left Church Hill. Part of why
I return is to reconnect with a neighborhood I love.
And part is to check out the latest menu. Chefs have
come and gone, each with their own trademark palate.
On a recent cold winter’s eve, I ventured back
to see what’s being offered these days.
Because we were headed for the Hill on a Saturday
night, I called to make a reservation. Two people?
No problem. Now, that’s a rarity and a welcome
one. Arriving around 7:30 p.m. to find a mostly full
restaurant, we were greeted promptly and shown to
our reserved booth. This is the dream of all frequent
diners — no waiting and a cozy booth.
Taking in the clientele, we saw a real mix. There
was a girl seated at the bar in a corner, sipping
wine and reading what looked like a textbook. Young
couples on dates and foursomes in their 40s were settled
in booths. An air of friendly informality pervaded.
The Hill Cafe’s menu is just the right size.
There are five appetizers, four salads, 11 light-fare
items and 10 entrees, plus specials.
For starters, Bottomless Pitt chose the roasted oyster
basket ($6.25). Chesapeake oysters with smoked bacon,
green chilies and tomatoes were served in a tortilla
basket. B.P. was in oyster heaven as he happily scarfed
down every oyster — requesting a large glass
of water midway through due to the serious spice quotient.
Although I eyed the baked brie ($5.95) at our neighbor’s
table and the traditional Virginia crab dip with toast
points ($6.95), I decided to wait for the main event.
We did, however, order a house salad (mixed greens
with cukes, tomatoes, carrots, red onions and celery
for $2.50) to share, but it never arrived. That turned
out to be perfectly fine because when our entrees
came we had plenty to eat. Plus, our waitress was
apologetic.
B.P. was as happy with his entree as I’ve ever
seen him. He compared the quality of his Carpetbagger
Pork Steak to the likes of some of the city’s
finest trendy gourmet establishments. The pork loin
was stuffed with (more) Chesapeake oysters and maitre
d’ butter and served with red wine sauce ($14.50).
The pork was moist and tender, the oysters awesome
and the mashed potatoes that accompanied them were
desirably lumpy. In addition, a sautéed veggie
combo, cooked just right, graced both of our plates.
My shrimp and scallops en croute was halfway delicious.
The Gulf shrimp were plentiful — a half-dozen
large ones — and prepared to perfection. Smoked
bacon, fresh rosemary and dry sherry complemented
all that was contained in a puff pastry shell. But
the small bay scallops were a bit chewy and oddly
uniform in shape. But the shrimp were so yummy that
I focused on them and enjoyed my dinner nevertheless.
For dessert, we shared a slice of lemon pie/cake.
It was a light, tart combination of chiffonlike texture
with a layer of cake — a delightful finish to
a satisfactory dinner.
Whether you are craving a juicy burger or a crabcake
or strip steak or veggie dish, The Hill Cafe’s
menu is versatile enough to suit. And the price range
is reasonable enough to make a no-frills dinner for
two easy enough to do for anywhere from $15 for light
fare to $30 for main-course dining. The atmosphere
is quiet enough to talk without shouting; only a nearby
smoker marred the evening for us. I’d recommend
The Hill Cafe, not only to Church Hill neighbors who
can hoof it over there on a snowy night, but to others
more far-flung who are looking for a small and unpretentious
place to dine.
The Hill Cafe
2800 E. Broad St.
Lunch Sunday-Friday 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; Dinner 5:30-10
p.m. weekdays and Sunday; 4:30-11 p.m. Saturday, brunch
Sunday. Light fare available 3:30-5:30 daily and after
10 p.m.
648-0360 |
